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FOOD-COOKING · BITE · 2 MIN · INTERMEDIATE

How a 12-Year-Old's Thumb Made Vanilla a Global Crop

Outside Mexico, vanilla orchids will not pollinate without the right bee. In 1841 a 12-year-old enslaved boy on Réunion did it by hand.

The vanilla orchid, Vanilla planifolia, is native to the Gulf coast of Mexico and pollinated there by a small bee, the Melipona. The plant's flower opens once and closes by the end of the day; if it is not pollinated, it drops and no pod forms. Brought to Réunion and Mauritius in the 1820s, the vines flourished. Year after year, no fruit.

In 1837 the Belgian botanist Charles Morren published a hand-pollination technique, but it was too slow to make commercial cultivation viable.

The problem was solved one morning in 1841, on the plantation of Féréol Bellier-Beaumont in the eastern hills of Réunion. A 12-year-old enslaved boy named Edmond split open an orchid flower with a sliver of bamboo, lifted the rostellum — the small membrane that, in the wild, an insect would brush past — and pressed the anther onto the stigma with his thumb and forefinger. A pod began to form days later.

The technique took seconds. Bellier-Beaumont demonstrated it to neighbouring planters; within a few growing seasons, Réunion had become the world's largest producer of vanilla. The method is still standard. Almost every vanilla pod on the market — Madagascar, Tahiti, Indonesia — is hand-pollinated by some descendant of Edmond's gesture.

Slavery was abolished in French colonies in 1848. Edmond took the surname Albius, the Latin for white, the colour of the orchid he had unlocked. He worked as a kitchen servant in Saint-Denis. Years later, after a conviction for theft, he was given clemency on the grounds of his contribution to vanilla production. He died in poverty in Sainte-Suzanne in 1880, around 51 years old.

#vanilla#agriculture#history-of-food#botany#slavery
Sources
WikipediaCBC IdeasLapham's Quarterly